Cellotape transfer

As my emulsion transfers were unsuccesful I tried the cellotape transfer which is cellotaping over your photograph with pieces of cellotape a finger width, then putting on loads of water on the back of it (running under a tap for a minute) leaving it to stand for five minutes. After that rub it off with a sponge and the photo will appear on the cellotape.

 

 

 

I scanned this in, it isn't that sharp and clear on here, I brightened it as much as I could without it being to over exposed. It is in my sketch book as it is a lot clearer.

 

I like this transfer as it is very clever and I like how sharp it comes through on the cellotape. It makes the colours seem more bright such as the pinks and blues of the house. This makes the image look really delicate.

 

Final Piece inspiration

http://www.bristolstories.org/story/135

This is a print screen of the link of the first website which I found from here:

http://www.watershed.co.uk/dshed/bristol-stories/preview

It has some great stories, myths, events, history etc talking about Bristol. As I was reading it really gave me some inspiration for my final shoots (final piece) as I am looking  at the documentation and movement around Bristol to hear the stories and for it to link to the right location was really useful.

Cyanotype experimentation with final piece

The cyanotype is a process making a photograph with a blue, died effect which can be printed on fabric, paper, wood etc. This process is made up of two simple solutions.

• Potassium ferricyanide and Ferric ammonium citrate (green) are mixed with water separately.
• The two solutions are then blended together in equal parts.
• Paper, card, textiles or any other naturally absorbent material is coated with the solution and dried in the dark.
• Using Photoshop edit the image to negative if you want it positive, vise versa and then print. The cyanotype is printed using UV light, such as the sun, a light box or a UV lamp.
• After exposure of 15/20 minutes the material is processed by simply rinsing it in water. A white print emerges on a blue background.
• The final print is dried and ready!

The process didn't work very well as shown here:

 

 
It firstly started off unsuccesfully as I hadn't contrasted the inverted picture enough, so I went back again and changed the levels on Photoshop so it would become successful. I over exposed it too much outside which meant it was unsuccessful again so I went into the dark room to do some photograms to make sure my inverted picture was fine. Here it is:
 



 
 
Learning from this I can see that I need to make the dark parts of the image even darker and brighten some parts using Levels again on Photoshop.
 

 
 

 

Showing my process

I am making a background copy (bottom right hand corner) and deleting the first layer into the bin.

Here I am dragging the background copy onto my layer which is highlighted in blue at the bottom.

Now that it's dragged, I am changing my opacity to what I feel is relevant and will make the best composition.

This is my third latyer I will bring onto the image.

As I have dragged the photograph onto my layered photo I changed the opacity which creates my final layer.

Developing further for my exam piece

After my layering sometimes I want to highlight certain parts of the photo, this print screen shows me rubbering out the parts of the picture between the railings I have used. I highlighed the movement of the people to the left.

Loreiua and Sidaway

Dark room edits for my exam

 

During my final piece process I used some of my pieces which have been experimentation the final piece and looking at dark room edits. Here are two images with different processes. Some of the dark room projecters were stronger than others, for example the really dark ones were 2/3 seconds but to get it right I had to put a piece of glass over it so it wasn't so strong on the paper.

 

I changed projecters, one which wasn't as strong and was quite dim infact, I then did this for 4/6 seconds e.g. 4th photo which came out I think in the right contrast, not too light and not too dark.

 

I wanted to trial dark room edits as they can make photos look older, or more darker, dimmer as it's black and white and if you get the right balance a really contrasting image. With layering this can work for example my fourth image (top image) with the different layers it looks like an old fashioned photo and the bottom picture looks haunted.